Hermès is a French fashion house founded in Paris in 1837. Its founder, Thierry Hermès, started out in a workshop making harnesses and horse-riding equipment. From that saddlery skill, the business grew into leather goods, which remain its core today, and then into silk, clothing, watches, jewelry, and perfume. Its first leather handbag was only made in 1922. After that came widely known models such as the Kelly and the Birkin. The company is still controlled by descendants of its founder and has 63 production sites in France. For secondhand buyers, this equestrian background is useful to know, because the stitching, leather, and construction of a bag are the first things we look at.
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Thierry Hermès was born in Krefeld in 1801. He trained with a saddle and harness maker in Pont-Audemer, Normandy, then in 1837 opened his first workshop in Paris, near the La Madeleine church. His products were high-quality horse equipment. A first-class medal at the Exposition Universelle in 1867 opened the way to high-end clients. His son, Charles-Émile, took over the business in 1880 and moved it to 24 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, an address that is still the headquarters today.
The next generation, Adolphe and Émile-Maurice, used the name Hermès Frères. Émile-Maurice made the Haut à Courroies bag so that riders could easily carry their saddles and boots. After returning from the United States during World War I, he brought saddlery skills, including the saddle stitch, to the growing luggage market. He also obtained the exclusive right to use zippers on leather goods. The first leather handbag was made in 1922, after his wife had trouble finding a suitable bag. In 1935 the Sac à dépêches appeared. During World War II, orange became the house's official color because materials were hard to get, and the Duc attelé drawing by Alfred de Dreux was chosen as the logo.
Jean-Louis Dumas led the company from 1978. In 1984 he designed the Birkin after talking with Jane Birkin on a plane. Since the 2010s Hermès has added factories in France, mainly for leather goods, and bought tanneries, including Tannerie d'Annonay (2013) and Tanneries du Puy-en-Velay (2015). The reason was to meet demand while keeping quality up.
- Kelly: a bag with a strap that got its name in the 1950s, after a photo of Grace Kelly, princess of Monaco, with the bag was published in Life magazine.
- Birkin: designed by Jean-Louis Dumas in 1984, inspired by the large woven basket Jane Birkin used to carry her things.
- Sac à dépêches: a leather bag introduced in 1935, and one source describes it as the bag that later became known as the Kelly.
- Haut à Courroies: a bag designed by Émile-Maurice Hermès so that riders could carry their saddles and boots.
Hermès is currently empty. Preloved pieces arrive one at a time, check again after the next drop.
What we check before listing
We look at the stitching first: neat, tight, and consistent along the edges and around the handles, in keeping with the saddlery tradition that is the root of Hermès. The leather is checked for scratches, stains, fine cracks at the folds, and worn corners. We check the hardware for scratches, peeling color, and how smoothly the lock, buckle, or zipper works. The stamps, labels, and interior finishing are compared with similar models. An orange box, dust bag, or receipt helps complete the item's history, but it is not proof of authenticity and not a guarantee.
Caring for it
Store the bag upright in its dust bag, and fill the inside so it keeps its shape. Keep it away from rain, humidity, and direct sunlight, which can dry out or fade the leather. Wipe off dust with a soft, dry cloth, and leave stains or leather treatment to a bag care specialist. Avoid stacking heavy items on a bag that is in storage.
FAQ
Why is the Kelly bag called Kelly?
In the 1950s, a photo of Grace Kelly, who had just become princess of Monaco, carrying the bag was published in Life magazine and spread around the world. People have called it the Kelly bag since then, and Hermès uses that name.
Where does the Birkin design come from?
According to the sources we have, Jean-Louis Dumas designed it in 1984 after sitting next to Jane Birkin on a Paris-London flight. Its shape was inspired by the large woven basket Jane Birkin usually carried.
Why are Hermès boxes orange?
Orange became the house's official color during World War II, when materials were hard to get. The orange paper box was then registered as a distinctive feature in the 1950s. A box is useful for completing an item, but it is not proof of authenticity.
Can every secondhand Hermès bag be confirmed as authentic?
We check the stitching, leather, hardware, and labels based on what we usually look at, but that is not a guarantee. For high-value models, buyers should ask for detailed photos and ownership history, and ask questions before buying.
References
Facts summarised and rewritten from the sources above (CC BY-SA licence).