TAG Heuer is a Swiss watchmaker. It was originally called Heuer, founded by Edouard Heuer in 1860 in St-Imier. The brand is best known for chronographs, which are watches with a stopwatch function, and for sports stopwatches. From the 1950s to the 1970s, Heuer watches were popular with racing drivers, both professional and amateur. The name TAG Heuer has only been used since 1985, after Techniques d'Avant Garde (TAG) took a majority stake. Since 1999 the company has been part of LVMH. Lines still in production include Carrera, Monaco, Aquaracer, Formula One, and Autavia. For buyers of secondhand watches, this long history means there are many generations, references, and styles. Identifying the series and year of manufacture is the first step before choosing.
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Edouard Heuer founded Uhrenmanufaktur Heuer AG in St-Imier in 1860. He patented his first chronograph in 1882, then in 1887 patented the "oscillating pinion", a component that, according to our references, is still used by major makers of mechanical chronographs. In 1911 Heuer patented the "Time of Trip", the first dashboard chronograph for cars and aircraft. Its first wrist chronograph appeared in 1914. Two years later, Edouard's son Charles-Auguste introduced the Mikrograph, the first stopwatch accurate to 1/100 of a second.
From the 1950s to the 1970s, the Heuer name was closely tied to motor racing. Heuer was among the largest makers of stopwatches and timing instruments, so drivers, crews, and event sponsors also wore its chronographs. There were special versions with the Indianapolis Motor Speedway logo, as well as team and sponsor logos. In 1962, John Glenn carried a Heuer stopwatch on the Mercury Atlas 6 mission, making Heuer the first Swiss watchmaker in space. The Carrera was released in 1963, designed by Jack Heuer, the founder's great-grandson. In 1969, Heuer, together with Breitling and Hamilton, introduced the automatic chronograph. Heuer's first three automatic models were the Autavia, Carrera, and Monaco.
In 1985, TAG Group acquired Heuer and the name TAG Heuer was born. So a watch whose dial says only Heuer was generally made before that year. LVMH bought a majority stake in 1999. After that, the brand released the Connected smartwatch in 2015 and celebrated 50 years of the Carrera in 2013, with ten generations since 1963.
- Carrera: a plainly styled chronograph designed by Jack Heuer, released in 1963 and still an important part of the current collection.
- Autavia: began as a dashboard timer in 1933, then became a wrist chronograph with a rotating bezel in 1962.
- Monaco: one of Heuer's first three automatic chronographs in 1969.
- Connected: TAG Heuer's first smartwatch, announced in November 2015 with the Android Wear system.
What we check before listing
We match the dial text, logo, and name (Heuer or TAG Heuer) to the era and series in question. We check the reference number and serial number on the case and make sure both are clearly legible and consistent with the model. On chronographs, all pushers, the start, stop, and reset functions, and the register hands are tested to make sure they return to zero properly. The crystal, bezel, and bracelet are inspected for scratches, signs of excessive polishing, and looseness in the links. For 1960s Autavia models, we also look at the case back type, because early models used a screw-back and the snap-back only appeared around 1968. This is how we usually check, not a guarantee of authenticity.
Caring for it
Keep the watch away from water if it is old or its water resistance has never been tested, and do not press the chronograph pushers while it is submerged. Clean the case and bracelet with a soft, slightly damp cloth, then dry them. Mechanical watches should be serviced regularly by an experienced watchmaker. For Connected models, keep the battery and software up to date.
FAQ
What is the difference between Heuer and TAG Heuer?
Heuer has been the brand name since 1860. The name TAG Heuer has been used since 1985, when Techniques d'Avant Garde (TAG) took a majority stake. A watch marked Heuer was generally made before that year.
Who designed the Carrera?
The Carrera was released in 1963 and designed by Jack Heuer, the great-grandson of the brand's founder. Its design is simple, with only registers and markers applied to the dial.
How can I tell whether a secondhand TAG Heuer is genuine?
No single sign is enough. We compare the dial, reference and serial numbers, movement, and quality of workmanship with the model in question. Original papers and box help, but the check should still be done on the watch itself.
Does a secondhand watch need servicing after purchase?
For a mechanical watch, regular servicing is reasonable, especially if its service history is unknown. A watchmaker can check the movement, gaskets, and water resistance.
References
Facts summarised and rewritten from the sources above (CC BY-SA licence).