Omega is a luxury Swiss watchmaker now based in Biel/Bienne. Louis Brandt founded it in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1848 and began by assembling pocket watches from components made by local craftsmen. Omega became the company name in 1903. The brand is known for its results in observatory tests, its role as official Olympic timekeeper since 1932, and the Speedmaster worn on the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. The Seamaster is also widely known as the watch James Bond has worn since the film GoldenEye. For buyers of secondhand watches, the range of production eras is long. That is why understanding the model generation, reference code, and movement type helps a great deal before choosing.
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Louis Brandt started his business in 1848 by assembling key-wound pocket watches from local craftsmen's components. His watches were sold from Italy to Scandinavia, with Britain as the main market. In 1877 his two sons, Louis-Paul and César, joined him. In 1894 the two built their own production system, which made components interchangeable. Watches made with that system were sold under the name Omega, and in 1903 the company officially took the name Omega Watch Co. In the same year both brothers died. By then the company had become one of the largest watch producers in Switzerland, with an output of 240,000 watches a year and 800 employees.
Omega's reputation for precision was built in observatory tests. The results were used for the slogan "Exact time for life" in 1931. From 1958 to 1969, Omega was the producer of the most COSC-certified chronometers. Its technical innovations include the 30I tourbillon wristwatch caliber (1947), the first mass-produced watch with a coaxial escapement (1999), and Master Chronometer certification (2015).
In 1930 Omega merged with Tissot in the SSIH group. The 1970s brought the quartz crisis, and Omega also tried to compete with quartz movements of its own making. Today Omega is part of the Swatch Group. Omega also supplied watches to the British military in World War II. The Seamaster 300 was issued to special units of the British Navy and Army from 1967 to 1971. For secondhand watch buyers, this long history means there are many variants and generations to learn to recognize.
- Speedmaster: Includes the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, the watch marketed as the first worn on the Moon.
- Seamaster: A line of dive watches and everyday watches that includes the Planet Ocean, Ploprof, and Aqua Terra.
- Seamaster Diver 300M: Worn by James Bond since the film GoldenEye (1995).
- Constellation: An older Omega line available in men's and women's versions.
- De Ville: A line of dress watches, including the Central Tourbillon DeVille.
What we check before listing
We match the reference code to the watch's era, because Omega's numbering format has changed over time: two letters and four digits before 1962, the Mapics system until 2007, then PIC and PIC14. We check whether the dial, hands, and lume parts fit the watch's age, since part replacement is common on older watches. We look at whether the crown, crystal, and bezel come from the same model. The bracelet or strap is also checked for fit and wear. For a watch claimed to be Master Chronometer or chronometer certified, we advise buyers to ask for the card and service documents if available. Water resistance and accuracy are best checked through testing at a watchmaker, not only from the stated figures.
Caring for it
Keep the watch away from hard knocks and magnetic sources such as speakers or magnetic bags, especially for older watches. After purchase, regular servicing by a watchmaker who knows Omega will keep the movement and the rubber gaskets in good condition. Rinse a dive watch with fresh water after exposure to seawater, and make sure the crown is locked tight. Store watches you are not wearing in a dry place.
FAQ
What is the difference between the Speedmaster Moonwatch and the MoonSwatch?
The Speedmaster Moonwatch is an Omega watch. The MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Omega and Swatch released in March 2022, made of bioceramic and priced much lower. They are different watches, so check the label and the material before buying.
How do I read an Omega reference number?
The format differs by era. Before 1962 it was two letters and four digits. From 1962 to 2007 the Mapics system was used, while PIC has been in use since 1988. Today PIC14 is used, with 14 digits. The format helps estimate the watch's age, but it does not replace a direct inspection.
What does Master Chronometer mean on an Omega watch?
Omega introduced this certification in 2015. The movement passes the COSC test and eight METAS tests. A Master Chronometer watch has an accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day and resists magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Watches made before 2015 do not have it.
Does an Omega need servicing after buying it secondhand?
Preferably yes, especially if the service history is unclear. Omega has used the coaxial escapement since 1999, which in theory gives a longer service interval. Even so, the condition of each secondhand watch still needs to be checked by a watchmaker.
References
Facts summarised and rewritten from the sources above (CC BY-SA licence).