Seiko is a Japanese watchmaker founded in 1881, when Kintarō Hattori opened a watch and jewelry shop called K. Hattori in Tokyo. The name Seiko roughly means "exquisite" or "finely made", and it sounds the same as the word for "success". Seiko is known for producing many firsts: Japan's first automatic watch in 1956, Grand Seiko in 1960, and the world's first commercial quartz watch, the Astron, in 1969. The company is able to design and make all the components of its mechanical watches itself. Its range is wide, from the affordable Seiko 5 to Grand Seiko, so buyers of secondhand watches have a broad choice of prices and styles.
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Kintarō Hattori learned to make and sell watches from the age of 13, through apprenticeships at several watch shops. In 1881 he opened his own shop in Tokyo. From 1885 he dealt directly with foreign trading companies in Yokohama, so his shop sold imported watches that were hard to find elsewhere. The shop later moved to the main street of Ginza. In 1892 Hattori began making wall clocks under the name Seikosha. The first Japanese-made wristwatch, the Laurel, appeared in 1913. The Seiko brand has been used on wristwatches since 1924. The earlier name "Glory" was dropped because it sounded like the Japanese word "gorori", which was seen as a bad omen.
The 1950s and 1960s were the years when Seiko pursued quality. The Seiko Automatic (1956) became Japan's first automatic wristwatch. The Magic Lever in the Gyro Marvel (1959) made the self-winding mechanism more popular. Grand Seiko was born in 1960 with the aim of being the most accurate wristwatch. At the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, Seiko's mechanical stopwatches were chosen as the official timepieces. Then in 1969 the Astron arrived as the first commercial quartz wristwatch and set off the "Quartz Crisis" that hit the Swiss watch industry.
After that, Seiko kept trying new ways to drive a watch. Auto Quartz (1988) used arm movement to generate electricity, and was then relaunched as Seiko Kinetic in 1991. Spring Drive (1999) combined a mechanical watch with quartz accuracy. The Astron GPS Solar followed in 2012. Behind all this, Seiko watches were originally made by two companies, Daini Seikosha and Suwa Seikosha. The competition between them pushed technology forward and reduced production risk.
- Seiko 5: Available since the 1960s with five principles, namely an automatic movement, a day and date display, water resistance, a crown hidden at the 4 o'clock position, and a durable body and strap.
- Presage: A fully mechanical line one step above Seiko 5, with more detailed design and some models with urushi lacquer dials.
- Prospex: The professional watch line, such as dive watches (generally to the ISO 6425 standard, water resistant from 200 to 1,000 meters), field watches, and pilot watches.
- Grand Seiko: Started in 1960 with the manual-winding caliber 3180, and later also known for Spring Drive and the SBGA011 "Snowflake" model.
- Astron: The world's first commercial quartz wristwatch, launched in 1969.
What we check before listing
We match the model number on the case back to the look of the watch: the dial, hands, and case shape must fit that model. On a Seiko 5, we check that the day and date windows change correctly and that the crown at the 4 o'clock position works normally. For mechanical watches, we look at whether the rotor spins, whether the watch runs steadily, and whether there is any rough sound when it is wound. For quartz or Kinetic watches, we make sure the watch runs, the seconds hand moves evenly, and there are no traces of liquid behind the crystal. We also check the crystal, deep scratches on the case, looseness in the strap, and signs of replaced parts that are not original, including the strap and crown.
Caring for it
A mechanical watch lasts longer when it is worn regularly and serviced periodically by an experienced technician. A Kinetic watch is driven by arm movement, so it is best not to leave it idle for too long. Avoid hard knocks, magnetic fields, and excessive heat, especially on lacquered dials like those in the Presage line. Rubber gaskets can age, so do not rely on the water resistance rating of a secondhand dive watch until it has been checked again.
FAQ
What does the number 5 in Seiko 5 mean?
The number 5 refers to its five design principles: an automatic movement, a day and date display, water resistance, a crown hidden at 4 o'clock, and a durable body and strap. Modern Seiko 5 watches are generally mechanical watches at an affordable price.
What is the difference between Seiko 5, Presage, Prospex, and Grand Seiko?
Seiko 5 is the entry-level automatic watch. Presage is mechanical with more detailed design. Prospex is aimed at professional watches such as dive watches. Grand Seiko is the top line, which began in 1960.
What are Seiko Kinetic and Spring Drive?
Kinetic uses arm movement to generate electricity for a quartz movement, and is designed so that it does not need ordinary battery changes. Spring Drive is a movement made by Seiko that combines mechanical and quartz operation, so its accuracy is high.
How do you judge whether a secondhand Seiko watch is authentic?
We check that the model number, dial, crown, case, and the movement inside all match. These are the things we usually look at, not a guarantee. For high-value models, an inspection by a watch technician is still recommended.
References
Facts summarised and rewritten from the sources above (CC BY-SA licence).