Cartier is a French house of jewelry and watches. Louis-François Cartier founded it in Paris in 1847 by taking over the workshop of his employer, Adolphe Picard. His son, Alfred, continued the business, followed by his three grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, who took the Cartier name to many countries. In watches, Cartier is known for bold shapes: the square bezel on the Santos, the Tank silhouette inspired by war tanks, and the Baignoire and Tortue. Family control ended in 1964, but the Cartier name is still used. Its head office is now in Paris and the company is part of Richemont. For buyers of secondhand watches, this long history is useful, because many older models leave a trail that can be traced, from the code under the lugs to the origin of the movement.
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Louis-François Cartier started his business in Paris in 1847. In 1874 his son, Alfred, took over the company. The Cartier name only became known worldwide thanks to Louis-François's three grandsons. Louis ran the Paris branch and moved it to Rue de la Paix in 1899. Pierre opened the New York branch in 1909. Jacques looked after London. By then Cartier already had branches in London, New York, and Saint Petersburg, and had long served royal families. King Edward VII, for example, issued a royal warrant to Cartier in 1904.
For wristwatches, 1904 matters. The aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier that a pocket watch was impractical to use while flying. Louis then designed a flat wristwatch with a square bezel. That watch became the Santos, Cartier's first men's wristwatch. In 1907 Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jaeger, who would supply movements exclusively. In the early 1920s, Cartier formed a joint venture with Edward Jaeger to make movements specific to Cartier. Even so, movements from Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Movado, and LeCoultre were still used as well. Around that time Cartier began stamping a four-digit code on the underside of the lugs.
After Pierre died in 1964, the family's successors sold the businesses in Paris, London, and New York. An investor group led by Joseph Kanoui bought Cartier Paris in 1972, then London in 1974 and New York in 1976. The three were brought together as Cartier Monde in 1979. The Les Must de Cartier line, which includes watches and accessories, appeared under these new owners.
- Santos de Cartier: Cartier's first men's wristwatch, which began as a design by Louis Cartier for Alberto Santos-Dumont, with a distinctive square bezel.
- Tank: Designed by Louis Cartier with inspiration from war tanks on the Western Front in World War I, and it has many variants.
- Baignoire: A model that went into production around 1912 and, according to our sources, is still made today.
- Tortue: From the same generation as the Baignoire, and a single-pusher Tortue chronograph is recorded in 1928.
- Pasha de Cartier: Launched in 1985, then offered in a steel version with the Pasha C in 1995.
What we check before listing
We start with the shape and proportions of the case, because models such as the Tank, Santos, and Baignoire have lines that are easy to see if the case has been over-polished. We check the code or serial number, including the four-digit code under the lugs on older models, and compare it with the other parts that are marked. We look closely at the dial, hands, and crown: the printed lettering should be neat and the color of the hands should match the dial. We also check the strap or bracelet, the crystal, and whether the movement runs steadily. We note the completeness of the box, papers, and service history when they are present, but this is still our observation, not a guarantee of authenticity.
Caring for it
Keep the watch away from water, perfume, and excess humidity, especially if it is old and the case's water resistance has never been checked. Clean the case and bracelet with a soft cloth that is dry or slightly damp. Leather straps should be kept away from sweat and rain, and will need replacing from time to time. Regular servicing at a watchmaker or service center that is competent helps keep the movement in good condition.
FAQ
What does the four-digit code under the lugs mean?
According to the sources we have read, from the early 1920s Cartier began stamping a four-digit code on the underside of the lugs on its watches. We see it as one clue, not a single piece of proof. It needs to be read together with the other numbers, the case, and the movement.
Are all Cartier watch movements made in-house?
Not always. Cartier had an arrangement with Edmond Jaeger and a joint venture with Edward Jaeger for dedicated movements. However, Cartier watches have also used movements from Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Movado, and LeCoultre.
What is the difference between the Santos and the Tank?
The Santos began as a watch for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont and has a square bezel. The Tank was designed by Louis Cartier with inspiration from war tanks in World War I. Both are Louis Cartier designs, but they have different lines and a different history.
Is Cartier still owned by the Cartier family?
No. The family sold the business after Pierre Cartier died in 1964. The company is now part of Richemont, but its name is still Cartier.
References
Facts summarised and rewritten from the sources above (CC BY-SA licence).